This medieval village is one of the buzziest places to ski

Ushguli is not your typical ski destination. You won’t find ski lifts, après lounges, or chic hotels here.

Yet, it’s precisely the lack of high-end amenities that have made it a buzzy destination for adventurous skiers and snowboarders (and landed it on National Geographic’s list of Best of the World travel experiences for 2024). Nestled in the heart of the Caucasus Mountains of Georgia, Ushguli’s slopes entice skiers with pristine powder and untracked runs—conditions that can be increasingly rare in more popular Alpine ski destinations.

But most enticing of all might be what awaits visitors off the slopes: the chance to connect with the proud and resilient culture of Ushguli, which has endured for centuries despite the rugged terrain, harsh climate, and Soviet-era attempts to transform it.

Ushguli history and hospitality

In the Svaneti region of Georgia—nearly 250 miles northwest of the capital, Tbilisi—the Ushguli community of medieval villages perches at about 7,000 feet above sea level. Its inhabitants, primarily sheep farmers, live in one of Europe’s highest settlements.

Ushguli is famed for its iconic stone towers, some dating back to the ninth century. Recognized by UNESCO for their cultural significance, these towers were once a crucial line of defense, where locals would seek refuge during times of conflict, using the elevated vantage points to repel invaders with stones and arrows. The name “Ushguli” is believed to stem from the Georgian phrase “ushishari guli,” meaning “fearless heart.”

In Georgia, the value of hospitality transcends even bravery, courage, or skillful weapon handling. The Georgian proverb “Every guest is a gift from God” encapsulates this sentiment, highlighting the profound importance placed on welcoming and honoring visitors.

Nearly every home in Ushguli now has been repurposed as a guesthouse, often managed by families, offering intimate experiences steeped in Georgian hospitality. Guests can share meals with their hosts and gain a deeper understanding of their ages-old way of life.

“I’ve seen how connecting with local traditions adds a special touch to the skiing adventure, making it more than just a ride down the mountain—it’s an immersive experience in a unique culture,” says Beqa Phajishvili, a mountain guide and a founder of the Alpine Project, which organizes skiing tours in Svaneti. 

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Skiing in Ushguli

For many visitors, the journey to Ushguli begins in the Svaneti town of Mestia. It’s recommended to acclimate with a few runs on Hatsvali mountain, a few miles from town, before venturing further. Hatsvali offers breathtaking views of Ushba mountain, often referred to as the “Matterhorn of the Caucasus.”

(Georgian shepherds keep an ancient tradition alive in the Caucasus Mountains.)

The onward journey to remote Ushguli is an adventure in itself, requiring a challenging two- to two-and-a-half-hour drive, subject to the whims of weather and road conditions.

Once in Ushguli, backcountry skiing is the primary means of exploring the slopes, although heliskiing is also popular.

“We select a hill based on daily conditions, trek up, usually 900 to 1,500 meters, and ski down from there,” says John Crook, a professional British Mountain Guide who offers skiing experiences in Chamonix and Svaneti. “It’s different from skiing at resorts, where it’s busy. In Ushguli, you pick your mountain, your line. It’s hard to beat skiing like that. Once you do it, you’ll never go back to resort skiing.”